Wednesday 31 December 2008

Christmas in Thailand

Long time I know... but we made it to Thailand in grand style - sailing at over 8 knots peaking at 10.2 knots - covering the entire boat in a nice crust of salt. For the first time Russ didn't mind the salt and enjoyed the sail. It wasn't very pleasant as it was mostly up wind and with a short chop but still... anything that makes the captain smile is good I guess. Thailand is a very different place during the NE Moonson, we totally missed it when we arrived here last march so didn't have an idea of the pleasure it is. Constant breeze & lovely temperatures, now we know what the fuss was about!

We had Christmas in Nai Harn in company of some friends from other boats. We had a meal onboard of Moonwlaker then had a dance ashore then back to the boat for dessert and presies! Santa Klaus brought a nice mini dvd player with a 7 inch screen that we can charge on 12 volt saving us some power... life onboard... a bit of a squeeze to watch movies but still...

Now we are in Ko Lanta for New Years to escape the crowds (that are not too bad thanks to the invasion/protest of the airport in Bangkok and the world crisis) and will hang around this area for a wee while.

Cheers to 2009. BRING IT ON!

Monday 8 December 2008

Rebak Marina

We've been hanging out at Rebak Marina for the last week. Me, doing good business with my bikinis and practising Pilates with the cruisers, and Russ working hard on Fred's hard top.

It's been a productive week, I have scraped all the old glue from behind the cushions in the cockpit and repainted it all white, next job will be to choose a nice new cover for the cushions. We are slowly re-varnishing all the wooden edges inside the hulls so Moonwalker will be ship shape very soon. Have installed the new windlass (GREAT!) too.

Found this boat with which had Freya's name (Russ' niece) and the boat was from Holland (which happens to be Freya's surname), hence the name on the boom: "Freya Holland"! Had to take a photo and show you guys!

Thursday 27 November 2008

Back in Malaysia

After a hurried but efficient re-lauching, we have put the new propellers to test and they ROCK! Obviously we still have a bit more testing to do, but Russ believes we got an extra 1.5 knots of boat speed. We increased the pitch on the propeller from 20 to 23 degrees which puts a bit more strain on the engine but it has plenty of extra power for that. So far so good.

Russ is now taking a well deserved rest, especially his back which got a canning during his time in Satun. Tomorrow we are back on track, taking measurements on Endless Dream (Frederick's boat) to build a new hard top for it, then fit the new parts for our windlass. So maybe another 10 days around Malaysia and we will be on our way to Thailand with a top boat to try and do some charter work and top up the depleted coffers.

For me, well, I am a very happy and proud writer of our first published article in NZ! The December Issue of Boating New Zealand Magazine has a 9 page spread on us! I haven't seen it yet and would love to hear your feed back!

Tuesday 25 November 2008

Another day in Satun...

The rain stopped, Russ jumped on his gun, and now Moonwalker has a red bum! The spraying went really well but the blue tape... it has ruined the boot toping, after we had polished an everything! The tape stayed on for only one day and it's supposed to last 7! Anyhow, Russ was about to blow his brains out as you imagine... Now the rain is back so we will paint the cabin top tomorrow weather permitting. Hopefully day after tomorrow we will be out of here. I feel a bit bad saying all this bad things about the place, as the people are just so wonderful here! Last night we were trying to find a restaurant but ended up having this meal with a family at their house. So special. Here are some photos of our day:

Sunday 23 November 2008

Satun - Thailand

Unfortunately the new crane driver for the Langkawi yard never eventuated so here we are in Satun after a heart pumping approach to the yard's creek. There are absolutely no navigational aid, the place is so shallow that I wonder how any monohulls get to this place! Eventually a fishing boat came and we followed it to the entrance of the creek doing a bunch of zig zags. We had to wait for a few hours to the optimum tide, and once we headed for the ramp, we couldn't see the trailer as it was already submerged in the murky brown water of the river. As we were being hauled out, we realized that the beams they put across the trailer were located totally in the wrong place. Too late, after a loud "crack" we screamed for the boat to be put back in the water. Once in the water Russ hopped off the boat and help the guys reset the beams. This after we had given them the plans, measurements and even photos! Russ even saw that the manager had the plans on his hands and still got it wrong! So Russ put some markings and checked the distances of the beams and back the trailer went. As we hauled out Russ realized they had not followed his markings properly and we had to jack the boat up again the next day to replace the beams. That's when we could see the two cracks under each hull. Thank Goodness Russ can fix all this as one of the cracks actually went through the boat hull, meaning we could see it inside! Oh well, welcome to Satan, I mean Satun... The place is a dump really. But people as usual is very friendly and kind of try to get things done but it's so mickey mousey I would never ever let anyone from here touch our boat! Here is a photo of where they placed our hulls! Just at the end of the beam!

As usual Russ befriended some young locals here and disappeared one night for over 2 hours, leaving me freaking out on the boat. Needless to say the ear full he got when he arrived! Next night the same young group invited us for dinner and out we went to this labirinth of alleyways to get to Loh's house. If you left me there, I would still be trying to find my way out! It was a lovely night. I got a ride back from a local young, how cool is this bike!


The work on the boat is going well, Russ has fixed the cracks and other bits and pieces we had to do, we have polished the hulls and are ready to spray the antifouling tomorrow. The plan is to spray the cabin top too. Now the best news is that our new propellers fit perfectly! We are very happy about that. All going well, in two days we are out of here!

Friday 14 November 2008

Which yard?

That's what happens when I leave Russ to do the updates for the blog in English! It's been ages! Anyhow, to tell you the truth not much has been happening here... We were anchored in Telaga unitl this morning, when we decided to move to Cenang, a backpacker hang out in Langkawi. Reason to be here is basically to do what backpackers do: party! We are catching up with some friends tonight and going to the only club we know in the island. Should be fun.

Now, the reason we are STILL in Malaysia, is the eternal yard drama that every cruiser goes through once a year, or two for the lucky ones. Moonwalker hasn't been out of the water for over 18 months! We had booked a yard in Phuket - Thailand, which was the cheapest we had found and knew. However we have been told you are not allowed to spray there, only if you cover the entire boat (even if you are doing only the antifouling!) at a massive cost of over NZ$400! So we started researching again, and found two alternatives: one in Thailand in a place called Satun, and the other a new yard, right next to the main port in Langkawi, run by a French man called Jean Pierre. Satun is well known by the cruisers as a very cheap place with the cheap approach to everything else too, they use a trailer to haul out. Ok by all means but Russ would rather try the new yard here in Langkawi (they use cranes). However, the crane driver whom was to haul us out, hit a buffalo while driving home on his motorbike and managed to plant himself in the hospital! Now we are waiting to see if a new crane driver can be arranged this week, otherwise we will head to Satun in Thailand. By the way both haul outs were cheaper than in Phuket but still much more expensive than in Australia. Just an idea, in Australia we spent  around NZ$500 for the haul out (and in) including 3 days on the hard. Here it will cost us NZ$600 just for the haul in and out at the cheapest place - which is in Langkawi.

The propellers are here! They are beautiful and we are very hopeful they will deliver the extra knots we want. Russ and I are scraping and sanding all the wooden trim of the galley and re-varnishing it. It looks great! The wood is a bit lighter now.  And we sold our 15hp outboard too. That will pay for the haul out and etc. We were not using it really. And it less 30kg from the boat.

Well for "not much going on here" I managed to write quite a lot... Will keep you posted on our yard saga.

Tuesday 28 October 2008

Waterfall in Langkawi

Here in Telaga Harbour we had the chance to see many of our cruising friends again and have been having a great time exploring the area. One of the great finds is these waterfalls located less than 3 miles from our anchorage. We have been visiting the falls everyday since, enjoying a nice natural jacuzzi and some cold coconut. Not a bad way to kill time until our new props arrive from NZ!

Tuesday 21 October 2008

Langkawi - Malaysia

After visiting the islands of Deudab (where Russ managed to score some nice waves) and Breueh, we got to our little refuge of Pulau Rubiah, where to our surprise other 5 boats where happily moored. Busy! We had a great time with the other cruisers and met some interesting locals. Dodent is the dive shop owner in Pulau Weh and he is the one whom put down the moorings for the sailboats for free! His reason behind that is an attempt to save the very little coral left in the Rubiah area after the tsunami. On top of that Dodent has an amazing coral replanting program which is in full swing at the moment. They place concrete blocks in certain parts of the bay and "replant" some coral on it. Their success rate is really encouraging. Dodent is a kind of lone fighter there though. He is having a hard time with the authorities that don't like the boats moored there in "hiding" and rather have them anchored in Sabang. However the anchorage in Sabang is awful and mooring or not, no one would be there, but the authorities don't see to see that and give poor Dodent a hard time. He is winning the coral battle though and we were very pleased to see an Indonesian so in tune with the ecology and genuinely concerned for the place's future.

Eventually we managed to de-tangle ourselves from Rubiah and headed for Penang, but wind and possible work ended up taking us up to Langkawi instead. So here we are back to Malaysia and slowly getting used to the whole civilization thing: ice cream, ice, tidiness etc etc, however the odd lady covered with a black burka with only her eyes out did wake us up to the fact that we are still very much in Muslim country.


The crossing was great - as far as crossings go - and we managed to sail half of the 270 miles we covered. Now the big surprise was finding a huge water spout on the way! It was terrorisingly
amazing.
Check the photo out

Friday 10 October 2008

End of our Sumatran dream

Hi Fullas, we have just left the outer islands off the west coast of Sumatra and are now anchored in a small cove about 50 miles down the west coast from Banda Aceh.

On my last days surf in Lakon Island I got caught up in the lip of substantial wave and had a major freefall to the bottom, not only was it the longest hold down I’ve had this year but I do remember when I was groveling around down there that I probably have broken my board as well. Sure enough a clean snap .Oh well, only one board in 3 months.

In the last 2 days we have had more sailing than the last 3 months and it’s been lovely just seeing how well the boat sails again. I’m sure you guys know what I’m like when I haven’t been sailing for a while. For those who don’t, I am a prick. All good now though.

We are heading for Pulau Weh and islands near ,just off Banda Aceh ,for a food and fuel stock up and clear out with Indo officials, fun.

Karin’s hunter/gathering spear fishing is going well so we are not going hungry. Rice is a stable diet though, just as well we like it. Karin was saying this morning that she’s really hanging for a big steak. The closest I have come to it was some dry buffalo jerky last week in Nias.

Someone please tell America, England and Australia that it is official, there are no pirates or terrorists here, maybe back in 1640,but not now. The people here are normal, just like us ,with family just like us and values just like us, however unlike us they are not so concerned with the current world crisis as they have had more than their fair share of REAL crisis. Even though they hardly have a thing ,they have big smile and have been very, very welcoming to us on Moonwalker.

Cheers for now ,and the worst thing is not having you all here to share it with us.

Please if you read this just drop us a couple of lines!

Wednesday 24 September 2008

Photos from Sumatra

Slowly but surely we are loading some of our most recent photos in Sumatra, keep checking us out for the latest!

surf,sailing,sorry motoring Sumatera

Hi Guys, sorry its been a while,our HF radio and our sailmail system on the boat is on the blink so no 'onsite' communication.Havent posted for a month as we have pretty much been in the middle of nowhere with no towns with electricity let alone internet.We are now in Gunning Sitoli in Nias about 60 miles off the coast of Sumatera.We had to drop off Mike and Adi,friends from NZ to an Airport.They had a 4 hr delay(good for Indo) as the plane overshot the runway and got stuck in the mud!We have had a great time with them,apart from lack of wind(doldrums!!!) and doing a lot of motoring we have had lots of great surf,friendly locals,good snorkelling and parties and talking lots of crap.
My surfing has moved to a new level with coaching from mike and photos from Karin.A few scars though as reef is close and sharp as hell.
As always photos tell a thousand words so when we are in a place where internet is slightly quicker than the stone wheel you will see the paradise we have found.Only 9 private cruising boats on this coast of Sumatera all season.
We will start to make our way back up the west coast to Banda Aceh now and be back in Penang/Langkawi Malaysia by Early november.
If you read this please spend a minute to drop us a note on catmoonwalker@gmail.com.
out of everything ,hardest part is missing everyone at home           cheers  Russ

surf,sailing,sorry motoring Sumatera

Hi Guys, sorry its been a while,our HF radio and our sailmail system on the boat is on the blink so no 'onsite' communication.Havent posted for a month as we have pretty much been in the middle of nowhere with no towns with electricity let alone internet.We are now in Gunning Sitoli in Nias about 60 miles off the coast of Sumatera.We had to drop off Mike and Adi,friends from NZ to an Airport.They had a 4 hr delay(good for Indo) as the plane overshot the runway and got stuck in the mud!We have had a great time with them,apart from lack of wind(doldrums!!!) and doing a lot of motoring we have had lots of great surf,friendly locals,good snorkelling and parties and talking lots of crap.
My surfing has moved to a new level with coaching from mike and photos from Karin.A few scars though as reef is close and sharp as hell.
As always photos tell a thousand words so when we are in a place where internet is slightly quicker than the stone wheel you will see the paradise we have found.Only 9 private cruising boats on this coast of Sumatera all season.
We will start to make our way back up the west coast to Banda Aceh now and be back in Penang/Langkawi Malaysia by Early november.
If you read this please spend a minute to drop us a note on catmoonwalker@gmail.com.
out of everything ,hardest part is missing everyone at home           cheers  Russ

Wednesday 20 August 2008

Sinky Sibolga

Got to Sibolga this morning, after an overnight from the Banyaks. Plenty of action at night, with boats, nets and a 30 knots squall. Managed to sail a good part of the trip which had Russ stoked. Sibolga doesn't look much from the water but what shocks is the smell... fish sauce mixed with garbage. Had to re-anchor as plastic bags on the anchor wouldn't let it settle. After all the awesome pristine spots we've been it's a bit of a shock to the system, but all yachties say it is better ashore with all the good shops, market etc. We will be finally clearing into Indonesia here, so wish us luck on dealing with the officials.

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Monday 18 August 2008

really cruising

We are still in the Banyaks parked just off a nice left hand reef break.You really have to have your shit together as the wave,although peeling,beaks around a reef about a foot under the water. I have a couple of really good reef tattoos on my back through being a little to game or being a little silly.
I am very proud of Karin with her spearfishing,one day she asks me how to load the gun,next day she's bringing home dinner!
This anchorage is great as you can afford to take your mind off the boat and focus on real fun for a while.
All good here!

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Saturday 16 August 2008

Spear-fishing woman!

Just a quick note to you all that I (Karin) am the new provider of the boat! And Russ' spear gun is not as bad as we thought if used at (very) close range! After a short lesson the day before yesterday, I went out on my own to try and get something, came back with an Unicorn fish of about 1.5kg. While not the best eating fish, it was highly appreciated and good sport (he took my spear into a hole where I had to fight him out of). Next day I found a cray and couldn't resist but spear it... not fair I know, but it tasted just delicious! I am totally hooked!

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Tuesday 12 August 2008

Bay of Plenty

We are having such an amazing time! Since our last post we had so many days of idillic surf, weather, clear water, jungle, monkeys and old friends! While at sundowners time, we got approached by a dinghy from a charter boat with some of Russell friends from New Zealand: Terry O'Shanessy, Andrew Mitchel, Hamish McCrostie, Chris Freeman and Mark Sharrock. Russ freaked! The boys seemed to be genuinely happy to see Russ out here, living the dream. What a blast of a time we had with those guys! Their charter skipper, Steve and his lovely Thai wife Anna, where amazingly generous having us for dinner one night. All the boys where having a great time, with plenty of coral scraps all over, but Russ had managed to escape that destiny, until yesterday... yep, good old coral tattoo for Russ the Mus. So one day of rest and pampering for the old man, but today he is ripping again. I can see him on the wave from where I am writing..oopps just got wiped out... We are in a place called by westerners "Bay of Plenty" (so much going on here - jungle, rivers, mangroves, coral, waves...) and by Indos, Teluk Mariabah. A little piece of paradise on the island of Tuangku in the Banyaks. Life is bliss.

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Thursday 7 August 2008

Cruise mode

After the dramas of the Aceh area we have now settled into cruise mode again. Sails haven't been out of the bag for days as there's no wind and I am getting used to the sound of the engine and burning dollar bills in diesel. A few years ago I didn't even dream of cruising the Northern Sumatran coast but its now a reality. It is bloody beautiful. We are now Island hopping discovering surf breaks,lovely anchorages,trolling in the dinghy for fish,hunting for big crabs to eat at sunset on the beach. Only concern is a nightly thunder/wind/rain cloud. It brings about 20 knots of wind and a massive downpour. I have rigged a rain catchment system on our cockpit bimini and it is working sweet. Tons of water! Just like home. Currently motoring, 20 miles out from Bangkaru Island (position 2 degrees north,96 degrees 06 minutes east) in the Banyak group of Islands, north of Nias. All well and loving it!

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Friday 1 August 2008

Waves

After a trouble free overnighter with quite a bit of sailing, we made it to Lakon Island off Simeulue. Our first anchorage saw us just by a little break that was the happiness of the boys. A very quick and sharp take off, but soft smooth waves after. Good training. I did attempt it a couple of times, but must say that the view of the corals underneath, especially with the wave being that steep and sucking up all the water totally freaked me out. But it was deep enough, even for a head dive, which Fred from Endless Dream did, obviously without wanting it. For the first time in days, I saw the boys with a huge smile on their faces. Françoeise (Fred's companion on this trip) and I went for long walks on the island, over huge "gardens" of dead coral, lifted by the tsunami. The coral debri, pilled on the beach made an impressive wall in some areas. A sad sight but it was nature's choice I guess. After 2 days in Lakon we are now 15 miles further south in an island called Simeulucut with beautiful white sand beach, turquoise water and a potential break around the corner we still have to check out. Russ is at this very moment on the top of Fred´s mast, taking photos of Moonwalker and the surroundings. It's hard going so far, but it's getting better by the mile.

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Monday 28 July 2008

Finally on the move

After 5 quite boring days hanging at Paroe Bay we finally had break from strong (20 knots +) South East winds and managed to move a staggering 15 miles south to a bay called Dayu. Took us almost 6 hours! No easy task trying to go up wind on 10 to 15 knots wind on the nose. We stopped quite early as Russ is very reluctant to burn diesel and beat into wind. I guess eventually he will give in and just tear up some dollar notes and motor down. It's been already 2 weeks and we made so little headway that it's getting into our nerves, especially with so many reports of good surf down south! So pray for light winds and for a generous Russ!

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Thursday 24 July 2008

Opening our eyes

We are about 25 miles down the west coast of northern
Sumatra. We are doing short hops into little bays as the
wind is howling and right where we want to go. This is the
area most affected by the tsunami in 2004, now four years on
we see still the destruction and the rebuilding. We anchored
in a small lagoon of Seudu and were welcomed with open arms
by the fisherman and their families.
Moonwalker became a meeting place and a focal point as they
all had incredibly built catamaran fishing platforms
themselves and about the same size. Equipped with our indo
dictionary we spent many hours sitting with groups of guys
on board, drinking tea, just talking. I think the most
incredible thing so far was when one of the group asked us
if the people in New Zealand knew that they had a tsunami
here a few years ago. They wanted the world to know they
were still here and they talked to us openly about the wave.
We assured them that all the world knew about Aceh and the
people here. There were some very sad moments on the boat as
they showed us where the wave came from, how it washed
around the semi-circular hillside, whitewater and rocks 80
to 100ft high. It took the entire village, even the asphalt
from the street , the complete fishing fleet, most of the
families and washed it all into a whirlpool in the middle of
the lagoon where we are now anchored.
International aid is evident everywhere. They supply the
materials and management, locals are rebuilding. For example
Singapore Red cross donated timber to Seudu village to build
5 new catamaran fishing platforms, the last one just being
completed and anchored in front of us. Oxfam built 50 new
houses for the 724 residents left and roading funded by US
AID continues. A massive job that I would not have believed,
if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes.
I think the village was happy we came and as always we wish
we could carry more and do more. Maybe having everyone on
board just to take their minds off everything else, share a
coffee for an hour or two was a start.


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Tuesday 22 July 2008

Around the corner in Sumatra

Sailing here has been incredibly difficult. We had another
amazingly difficult sail down the coast and are now on the
north west side of the island. We are literally hiding from
it all in a great anchorage we found after bashing for 4
hours against 30 knots winds to cover 10 miles. Russ was not
happy needless to say. He was a pile of nerves, and thoughts
of home, our house, kept popping on my head (on his too he
confessed)... But once we got here, after Russ had a beer
and the beauty of the place (even after ravaged by the
tsunami - you can see the scars of the hills and all the
houses are brand new) sank in, he stated smiling again. Some
friendly locals came by and on board. They were delightful
and polite. They took Russ to see one of their new fishing
platforms, made on 2 hulls (yes, catamarans!) with wood
donated from the Singaporean Red Cross. All the local boats
have been done recently from donated materials as
everything, I truly mean everything, got wiped out. Haven't
seen a single kid around, or women... don't know, maybe a
sign there aren't any left. Apart from the sad history,
everyone smiles and we feel lucky to be here. Played the
doctor again, giving nurofen for one of the fishermen with a
toothache. We have such a huge stash from our sick days in
Phuket!

It's funny, this sailing thing is hard, we truly hate it,
but once we get to the destination, the hardship seems to
disappear. I can't quite explain it, but it's true, more so
to Russ than for me. So we soldier on. Russ thinks it's a
preparation for our Indian Ocean Crossing, which promises to
be downwind, but rather long. Enough babble... nice to share
though, heart feels lighter.

> ***

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Saturday 19 July 2008

Pulau Weh & SAILMAIL

We arrived in Pulau Weh after a short sail through the channel, with again sudden winds of 20 knots plus. Tucked behind the back of Sabang, in front of a nice "losmen" (guesthouse) called Freddies. One of the most interesting things we have been seeing, apart from the weather, is the many bunkers on the beaches of northern Sumatra. They are everywhere. I guess it's from the second world war, when the Japanese where around? I don't know, would be nice to know the history behind it. We check one out and it was not only huge but had a massive support for some serious gun. But nowadays only goats stay in them. While I write, Russ has jumped on a motorbike to check Sabang Harbour and the weather on the other side of the island. He is still a bit edgy about the weather but the local people have a very soothing effect on him and he melts every wave, smile, friendly gesture, so I guess we are here to stay (at least until November!)

I want to take the chance to remind you all that I am updating the blog via SAILMAIL, so no photos for a little while. And if you want to contact us don't hesitate to drop a message to our SAILMAIL email, but remember: no files! When do not reply to our emails, make a new one to save our much suffering batteries...

Please let everyone know about the blog as from now on this will be our main channel to keep you all updated.

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Thursday 17 July 2008

testing storm tactics

When you reach any coast you pretty much feel you are home safe except when you don't have an anchorage and a 40 knot front passes around the top of Sumatera.Tacking upwind in 40 at night isn't much fun so pulled all sails down and turned downwind to get away from the coast and everything hard to hit or so we thought. We were still dong 6 to 7 knot with no sails up and losing ground to where we were meant to be going. Deployed a rope drouge to slow down. Now everything under control. Boat was now slowed but still moving with steerage. We had a bit of moon glow luckily as everything is not so bad when you can see a bit .Karin was at helm, me now sleeping when "fuck", she just sees and narrowly misses (by a foot max)a indo FAD. These are big tied bundles of giant 20ft long bamboo anchored in the middle of nowhere in 300 metres of water that fish swim around under. No light, just a piece of bamboo sticking up, maybe!
By morning,with a relatively good rest,started back up wind, west, to Pulau Weh. Suns out now, all is forgotten. Spurred on by radio call from friends further south with good surf and friendly Indo people.

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Wednesday 16 July 2008

Sumatra here we come!

After a hectic last days, we left tuesday the 15th to Sumatra. The weather has been good, with westerly winds allowing us to sail all the way to the coast of Sumatra. We have sighted land this mid morning but nowhere promised a good anchorage to decided to head up the coast to get closer to an anchorage we know before heading around the northern end of the island. We have to tack our way through as the wind is till westerly 15-17 knots. It's not comfortable sailing and Russ hasn't been able to get much sleep but, I guess that's sailing. We are back in to it on the deep end! Our coordinates for the google earth people: N 05 23.9 E 096 32.4

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Wednesday 9 July 2008

Welcome to our blog!!!

After making all of you suffer through reading my more than extensive mails here is (finally) our blog in English. We will endeavour to keep it as updated as possible as to avoid those painful long emails.

Here you can have access to our most recent photos through the slide show or check out our entire album of our adventures around the world!

Don't
hesitate to leave comments, it's a great way to keep in touch.

Hope you all enjoy sharing our adventure more closely.

We love and miss you all terribly.

Karin & Russ