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Monday 28 July 2008
Finally on the move
After 5 quite boring days hanging at Paroe Bay we finally had break from strong (20 knots +) South East winds and managed to move a staggering 15 miles south to a bay called Dayu. Took us almost 6 hours! No easy task trying to go up wind on 10 to 15 knots wind on the nose. We stopped quite early as Russ is very reluctant to burn diesel and beat into wind. I guess eventually he will give in and just tear up some dollar notes and motor down. It's been already 2 weeks and we made so little headway that it's getting into our nerves, especially with so many reports of good surf down south! So pray for light winds and for a generous Russ!
Thursday 24 July 2008
Opening our eyes
We are about 25 miles down the west coast of northern
Sumatra. We are doing short hops into little bays as the
wind is howling and right where we want to go. This is the
area most affected by the tsunami in 2004, now four years on
we see still the destruction and the rebuilding. We anchored
in a small lagoon of Seudu and were welcomed with open arms
by the fisherman and their families.
Moonwalker became a meeting place and a focal point as they
all had incredibly built catamaran fishing platforms
themselves and about the same size. Equipped with our indo
dictionary we spent many hours sitting with groups of guys
on board, drinking tea, just talking. I think the most
incredible thing so far was when one of the group asked us
if the people in New Zealand knew that they had a tsunami
here a few years ago. They wanted the world to know they
were still here and they talked to us openly about the wave.
We assured them that all the world knew about Aceh and the
people here. There were some very sad moments on the boat as
they showed us where the wave came from, how it washed
around the semi-circular hillside, whitewater and rocks 80
to 100ft high. It took the entire village, even the asphalt
from the street , the complete fishing fleet, most of the
families and washed it all into a whirlpool in the middle of
the lagoon where we are now anchored.
International aid is evident everywhere. They supply the
materials and management, locals are rebuilding. For example
Singapore Red cross donated timber to Seudu village to build
5 new catamaran fishing platforms, the last one just being
completed and anchored in front of us. Oxfam built 50 new
houses for the 724 residents left and roading funded by US
AID continues. A massive job that I would not have believed,
if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes.
I think the village was happy we came and as always we wish
we could carry more and do more. Maybe having everyone on
board just to take their minds off everything else, share a
coffee for an hour or two was a start.
Sumatra. We are doing short hops into little bays as the
wind is howling and right where we want to go. This is the
area most affected by the tsunami in 2004, now four years on
we see still the destruction and the rebuilding. We anchored
in a small lagoon of Seudu and were welcomed with open arms
by the fisherman and their families.
Moonwalker became a meeting place and a focal point as they
all had incredibly built catamaran fishing platforms
themselves and about the same size. Equipped with our indo
dictionary we spent many hours sitting with groups of guys
on board, drinking tea, just talking. I think the most
incredible thing so far was when one of the group asked us
if the people in New Zealand knew that they had a tsunami
here a few years ago. They wanted the world to know they
were still here and they talked to us openly about the wave.
We assured them that all the world knew about Aceh and the
people here. There were some very sad moments on the boat as
they showed us where the wave came from, how it washed
around the semi-circular hillside, whitewater and rocks 80
to 100ft high. It took the entire village, even the asphalt
from the street , the complete fishing fleet, most of the
families and washed it all into a whirlpool in the middle of
the lagoon where we are now anchored.
International aid is evident everywhere. They supply the
materials and management, locals are rebuilding. For example
Singapore Red cross donated timber to Seudu village to build
5 new catamaran fishing platforms, the last one just being
completed and anchored in front of us. Oxfam built 50 new
houses for the 724 residents left and roading funded by US
AID continues. A massive job that I would not have believed,
if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes.
I think the village was happy we came and as always we wish
we could carry more and do more. Maybe having everyone on
board just to take their minds off everything else, share a
coffee for an hour or two was a start.
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Tuesday 22 July 2008
Around the corner in Sumatra
Sailing here has been incredibly difficult. We had another
amazingly difficult sail down the coast and are now on the
north west side of the island. We are literally hiding from
it all in a great anchorage we found after bashing for 4
hours against 30 knots winds to cover 10 miles. Russ was not
happy needless to say. He was a pile of nerves, and thoughts
of home, our house, kept popping on my head (on his too he
confessed)... But once we got here, after Russ had a beer
and the beauty of the place (even after ravaged by the
tsunami - you can see the scars of the hills and all the
houses are brand new) sank in, he stated smiling again. Some
friendly locals came by and on board. They were delightful
and polite. They took Russ to see one of their new fishing
platforms, made on 2 hulls (yes, catamarans!) with wood
donated from the Singaporean Red Cross. All the local boats
have been done recently from donated materials as
everything, I truly mean everything, got wiped out. Haven't
seen a single kid around, or women... don't know, maybe a
sign there aren't any left. Apart from the sad history,
everyone smiles and we feel lucky to be here. Played the
doctor again, giving nurofen for one of the fishermen with a
toothache. We have such a huge stash from our sick days in
Phuket!
amazingly difficult sail down the coast and are now on the
north west side of the island. We are literally hiding from
it all in a great anchorage we found after bashing for 4
hours against 30 knots winds to cover 10 miles. Russ was not
happy needless to say. He was a pile of nerves, and thoughts
of home, our house, kept popping on my head (on his too he
confessed)... But once we got here, after Russ had a beer
and the beauty of the place (even after ravaged by the
tsunami - you can see the scars of the hills and all the
houses are brand new) sank in, he stated smiling again. Some
friendly locals came by and on board. They were delightful
and polite. They took Russ to see one of their new fishing
platforms, made on 2 hulls (yes, catamarans!) with wood
donated from the Singaporean Red Cross. All the local boats
have been done recently from donated materials as
everything, I truly mean everything, got wiped out. Haven't
seen a single kid around, or women... don't know, maybe a
sign there aren't any left. Apart from the sad history,
everyone smiles and we feel lucky to be here. Played the
doctor again, giving nurofen for one of the fishermen with a
toothache. We have such a huge stash from our sick days in
Phuket!
It's funny, this sailing thing is hard, we truly hate it,
but once we get to the destination, the hardship seems to
disappear. I can't quite explain it, but it's true, more so
to Russ than for me. So we soldier on. Russ thinks it's a
preparation for our Indian Ocean Crossing, which promises to
be downwind, but rather long. Enough babble... nice to share
though, heart feels lighter.
> ***
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Saturday 19 July 2008
Pulau Weh & SAILMAIL
We arrived in Pulau Weh after a short sail through the channel, with again sudden winds of 20 knots plus. Tucked behind the back of Sabang, in front of a nice "losmen" (guesthouse) called Freddies. One of the most interesting things we have been seeing, apart from the weather, is the many bunkers on the beaches of northern Sumatra. They are everywhere. I guess it's from the second world war, when the Japanese where around? I don't know, would be nice to know the history behind it. We check one out and it was not only huge but had a massive support for some serious gun. But nowadays only goats stay in them. While I write, Russ has jumped on a motorbike to check Sabang Harbour and the weather on the other side of the island. He is still a bit edgy about the weather but the local people have a very soothing effect on him and he melts every wave, smile, friendly gesture, so I guess we are here to stay (at least until November!)
I want to take the chance to remind you all that I am updating the blog via SAILMAIL, so no photos for a little while. And if you want to contact us don't hesitate to drop a message to our SAILMAIL email, but remember: no files! When do not reply to our emails, make a new one to save our much suffering batteries...
Please let everyone know about the blog as from now on this will be our main channel to keep you all updated.
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Thursday 17 July 2008
testing storm tactics
When you reach any coast you pretty much feel you are home safe except when you don't have an anchorage and a 40 knot front passes around the top of Sumatera.Tacking upwind in 40 at night isn't much fun so pulled all sails down and turned downwind to get away from the coast and everything hard to hit or so we thought. We were still dong 6 to 7 knot with no sails up and losing ground to where we were meant to be going. Deployed a rope drouge to slow down. Now everything under control. Boat was now slowed but still moving with steerage. We had a bit of moon glow luckily as everything is not so bad when you can see a bit .Karin was at helm, me now sleeping when "fuck", she just sees and narrowly misses (by a foot max)a indo FAD. These are big tied bundles of giant 20ft long bamboo anchored in the middle of nowhere in 300 metres of water that fish swim around under. No light, just a piece of bamboo sticking up, maybe!
By morning,with a relatively good rest,started back up wind, west, to Pulau Weh. Suns out now, all is forgotten. Spurred on by radio call from friends further south with good surf and friendly Indo people.
By morning,with a relatively good rest,started back up wind, west, to Pulau Weh. Suns out now, all is forgotten. Spurred on by radio call from friends further south with good surf and friendly Indo people.
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Wednesday 16 July 2008
Sumatra here we come!
After a hectic last days, we left tuesday the 15th to Sumatra. The weather has been good, with westerly winds allowing us to sail all the way to the coast of Sumatra. We have sighted land this mid morning but nowhere promised a good anchorage to decided to head up the coast to get closer to an anchorage we know before heading around the northern end of the island. We have to tack our way through as the wind is till westerly 15-17 knots. It's not comfortable sailing and Russ hasn't been able to get much sleep but, I guess that's sailing. We are back in to it on the deep end! Our coordinates for the google earth people: N 05 23.9 E 096 32.4
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Wednesday 9 July 2008
Welcome to our blog!!!
After making all of you suffer through reading my more than extensive mails here is (finally) our blog in English. We will endeavour to keep it as updated as possible as to avoid those painful long emails.
Here you can have access to our most recent photos through the slide show or check out our entire album of our adventures around the world!
Don't hesitate to leave comments, it's a great way to keep in touch.
Hope you all enjoy sharing our adventure more closely.
We love and miss you all terribly.
Karin & Russ
Here you can have access to our most recent photos through the slide show or check out our entire album of our adventures around the world!
Don't hesitate to leave comments, it's a great way to keep in touch.
Hope you all enjoy sharing our adventure more closely.
We love and miss you all terribly.
Karin & Russ
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