Leaving Madagascar

We are by Bally Bay north of the Cape St. Andre and got notice of a good weather window to go across the channel so have decided to take the chance. Leaving this evening. A bit unfortunate as we wanted to check further south but the anchorages with this weather are not so good and Paul is real keen to get to Sth Africa to enjoy a bit of it before he returns. Its just so hard to leave places we really enjoy! We will keep following the coast south for a few days just in case the weather window (or our minds) changes and then hop across. Its around 900 miles cross to Richards Bay but if a front comes through as we approach the coast of Africa we will hide behind an island off Maputo Bay in Mozambique called Inhaca till we can carry on south. This crossing although short in comparison to our latest ones is very tricky as it involves lots of currents and weather systems that blow through the channel very quickly leaving very few, if any, options of protection so caution and a good weather window are vital. Will keep you posted but should take up to a week to get there we believe. Glad the tsunami didnt get to New Zealand!

Down the coast of Madagascar

After stocking up in Hellville, which was quite the adventure on itself, and picking up Paul Nissen our mate from New Zealand we started slowly moving down the west coast of Madagascar. When I mean slow I mean real slow as there are so many places to visit! The sailing has been superb: as I write we are sailing up wind at 7 knots taking photos of some amazing local trading vessells. This place just so unreal! The boys from the local boat have just challenged us to a race by pulling their trousers down and shaking their butts at us! Its a laugh I tell you! Chances are they will beat us too! Anyhow just using this rare opportunity where the internet network actually works to let all know we are alive and loving it! We are planning to anchor in Moramba Bay just north of a big town called Mahajunga where we will stay for a few days before doing the big hop around Cape St Andre. We plan to stay on this coast for another 2 weeks before crossing the Mozambique Channel. We have seen plenty humpback whales, turtles and dolphins. Unfortunately no more whale sharks but the hope is still with us. Fishing isnt very good (that is for us, other boats are having more luck) but we have eaten quite a few mud crabs that we trade with locals for caps, plastic or glass containers, even nail polish! We visited an infamous island for its maximum security prison (in 1993 some inmates escaped boarded a cruising boat, killed everyone onboard and sailed away) called Nose Lava. The prison is not abandoned and only 3 convicts live there with their families. Samuel was our guide. He was arrested when he was 23 for murder. He is still doing his time by looking after the remains of the prison. He is 51 now. He showed us the prison, the solitaire cells and the administration building. After he took us to the lighthouse on the island and the fresh water stream. We donated food to the families as they have no support and very little means to buy much supplies. They were very grateful and friendly towards us. Tough life. We learn a new reality of life everyday in this place. Unforgettable moments all around.

Ce la vie!

Well you all know our French is pretty shit but we are trying with different degrees of success. Unlike the French the Madagascar people find our attempts very entertaining and even try to help us along, bless them! We are now doing a bit of a tour around the area around Nose Be and mainland Madagascar. We visited the island of Sakatia, Russian Bay and Iranja where we had the most amazing time. We arrived early morning before the SW winds start picking up and while having a cup of coffee onboard of Nero, with Bob and Glenda, Russell say something very big floating by the boat. We had heard about whale sharks in the area but were unsure about what it was as it looked and moved like a shark. Russ jumped in the water straight away, Glenda and I scrambled onto the dinghy to catch up and oh my God it was a 6 meter whale shark! We jumped in the water and swam with this gentle giant for about 10 minutes. It turned around a few times to break up out and once it had satisfied its curiosity it left us there catching our breaths and laughing like kids, it was awesome! The day after we where in the water snorkelling when we spotted 2 massive turtles, probably 1.5 meters long (from head to the massive thick tail it has) by a meter wide. John from the boat Dancyn, who is a marine biologist, said they where Loggerhead turtles. He rode one of them for a while even! Just another one of those magic moments we will cherish forever! Now we are in a very calm and flat anchorage just across from Nose Be on the mainland after a 20 miles kite sail. Just lovely. Russ is fixing the back of the port rudder that broke during our Chagos to Madagascar crossing while i clean some of my latest additions to the forever growing shell collection. Loving it! It's life alright!

MADAGASCAR

We still can not comprehend the fact that we have arrived in Madagascar. Its stuff of childhood dreams! We already saw Lemurs and are on the lookout for chamaleons. People are beautiful inside and out we fell great here although some safety measures are required in bigger and or touristic places. So far so good. Clearance procedures are easy and officials insist in saying the 1st month is free even when they give you a bill of nz$10 to pay, oh well, our French is pretty bad so i will blame on that. The local produce is fabulous and the meat splendid (oh how we missed red meat!). The local rum has provide us with some lovely nights and sore mornings but we love it. They have the most amazing sailing canoes and trade boats (up to 30 ft) with triangular lanteen sails, no engines. All taking full advantage of the land/sea breeze effect. A sight not to be forgotten. Carbon footprint of these people is as close to zero and civilized as you can get. We have visited some very remove villages in the north west, traded with the locals for food and other goodies. You would be surprised how many bananas you can get for an empty plastic water bottle! All in all things are pretty amazing really. We have another 30 of paradise before we are hoisting our sails seriously again to attack another serious piece of water: the Mozambique Channel to Sth Africa.

Chagos time

Did we say that Chagos is amazing? Yeah We thought so... Ok will tell you why apart from the fact that there are no inhabitants to these islands: pristine water (although on the chilly side), fish that are bigger than the fish books tell you they can get (e.g. Coral trout- delicious), coconut crabs crawling all over the place, stunning shells, turtles totally unafraid of you, birds that simply ignore your presence, amazing coral and diversity of fish. Ok the sharks are a bit freaky but its quite suprising how you get used to their sight. However we must say that on our last few days there a few tiger sharks (probably the most violent species of shark) showed up inside the lagoon in the shallow water (5 to 3 meters deep) to check and snack on a dead Beaked whale that was washed over the reef into the lagoon! So the big guys were out there all the time we just dont see them! We checked them out from our dinghy and they were longer (10 to 12ft) then our dinghy but not as wide. We know that for sure because Russ almost ran over one! Just unreal shit you guys, pardon my french... Well the BBQ on the BIOT (the British authorities in Chagos) boat was a highlight too and we were treated very well thanks to our connection to Captain Bob our ex-tenant in NZ and ex-captain of the boat. If you are reading this Bob, thanks for putting a word for us, those guys really like you and showed us a great time. Weather wise we arrived on a particular windy phase which brought constant 25 knots for 15 days. But we were well sheltered. The only shame is that with big seas we had quite few opportunities to dive the outside walls and pass. The current was quite fierce too so it was out of our league really so we did most of our snorkelling inside the lagoon. I didnt spear fish as it is illegal but with so many sharks around it was too risky. Plus the fishing was good and easy so no need but oh so tempting! We ended up staying for about 25 days as the winds calmed down a a great weather window came up to shoot across to Madagascar. We could not have dreamed of better conditions we where trully blessed. We covered 1540 miles in 8 days and 5 hours. 3 days of over 200 miles days. Our last 48 hours were a bit rougher with the last 5 hours as we approached Cape D'Ambre on the northern tip of Madagascar being particularly nasty as expected: 4 to 5 meters rough seas with 30 to 40 knot winds. We had only the storm jia up for steerage, 3 ropes dragging behind us to slow us down and Russ was doing what he could to avoid us surfing too much. It was intense but we felt safe even when a massive wave broke right on top of us causing the boat to get as close to broaching as I want to get, although Russ dismissed as only water... But the most amazing thing was watching a humpback whale travelling upwind like a massive sports boat, taking off on waves and crashing down. It was an amazing sunny day which made our approach even more special. Once around the Cape the seas flatten immediatly and only the wind lingers allowing us to anchor straight away for a well deserted good sleep looking at the lighthouse. We were in Madagascar...

About to leave for Madagascar!

Chagos is amazing. We are having a great time, fishing heaps, not as much diving as we would like but our shell collection is still increasing everyday! Shark city here! We have some amazing footage and photos but unfortunately our brand new underwater camera has given up on us already! Still under warranty so hopefully we get a new one in Africa.

We are getting ready to leave in the next couple of days as the weather has calmed down a bit (from the daily 25 - 30 knots to 15 - 25 knots winds)and the seas seem more forgiving. Russ has fixed the rudder and we are now working on the alternator with the help from Darren from Ovation. It's a down-sized community here (from the 25 plus boats to only 6) but a very nice and multinational group (Japanese, Americans, Aussies, but Kiwis rule here!). We are hoping for a 10 to 12 day passage to Madagascar but we will take our time getting to Nosy Be, so we should be back to civilization sometime mid-September. Hope this update finds you all well. XXX

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CHAGOS!!!

We are here! Actually we arrived 3 days ago, on the 3rd of July but been having far too much fun to stop and email! Sorry! The trip was long, 13 days, but with good winds (sometimes too good). Moonwalker sustained a bit of damage I'm sorry to inform, giving us some serious heart pumping moments: try fishing your rudder casing with you rudder in it, at 3 am with 25 knots of wind... Russell did it! But all good guys, remember? We have 2 rudders! And we can totally fix the other one here. Our fridge isn't working well either, our alternator is gone (thank goodness for our solar panels and the constant SE trades!)and our GPS didn't work for 4 days (hand held GPS saved us)! Oh well welcome to life onboard. Chagos is just stunning, we are loving it.

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