Tuesday, 24 May 2011

First month of Brazil

We´ve been in Brazil now for almost a month and we have experienced so much it feels like an year already! We have had many visitors and caught up with many from our family.

The reception, attention and love received has been overwhelming, not only from our family but from many of our blog followers!  It´s quite humbling to have so many people so excited in seeing Moonwalker and its crew... they share our dream and dramas and even though I am a bellow average blogger they are loyal and patient, waiting for my updates and photos. Its quite inspiring as we, that live onboard and lead this life, take things for granted most times and don´t quite see what it so special about it.

Myself personally am one of the most skepticals about it... people keep saying I should write a book or something about your lives etc, and I can´t quite see what people think is so interesting about our lives or experiences. Brazil has kind of opened my eyes a bit about the charmed and unique life we live. I kept thinking: “ we are just another couple sailing around” but the sheer discrepancy in numbers of the “doing”, “wanna dos” against the “landlubbers” here, and actually everywhere in the world, is gigantic! People are truly fascinated with what we do and what we see.

One reason I can see is that most Brazilians are connected to the net, not just for emails and work, but they see it as a mobile entertainment and information gate they seek daily. We are over 130 million people guys... it´s a lot of people if you get my gist. They read and access information very easily, especially now with the translating tools available.

A classic example: Russ went to this mechanical shop, that fixes water pumps, water blasters and other related things. He was trying to explain what he wanted and the mechanic guys behind the counter asked him to wait for a sec, picked up a laptop, went into some program online and got Russ to speak to the computer. Russ finding it quite funny said to the computer what he wanted and the computer translated to the boy behind the counter to the amusement of not only Russ but everyone in the shop. There you go, done. My own brother, the biggest geek I have ever known, came up with his flash Google phone and got Russ to speak to the phone too, so it could translate for him... lazy f@#k. Anyhow, the thing needs the internet connection so I make sure we got none so Eryk gets to speak English a bit more. Actually his English is fine and Russ´ Portuguese is getting much better, especially after a few caipirinhas!

We stayed in Rio for 2 weeks, mostly at anchor in Urca, a little heaven in Rio de Janeiro. Very safe and accessible. There we had absolutely everything we needed and Brisa became a local at the kids playground and waterfront. We befriended another couple living on their boat for 12 years. They are from Brazil and have never left the country on their boat, they are perfectly happy to cruise around these areas at their own pace. They were a fountain of local knowledge and very entertaining.

We actually met them because our anchor got stuck… yes… 8 meters of Guanabara´s  Bay water… oh boy. Webber was going to hire a scuba tank to clean the bottom of his boat so he said he would help with the anchor, our savior! It was all a bit nerve racking but we got there in the end.

We had quite a few visitors while in Rio and our time there was incredibly pleasurable. Russ said he would even go back! Now that´s something! We were anchored in quite an amazing place really, just below the sugar loaf and with an amazing view of the Corcovado (the Christ up on the hill) and the main beaches of the inner bay, Flamengo and Botafogo.

We did a bit of an expedition into the Bay and visited the island of Paquetá, a very quiet place without cars right in the middle of the Bay. Unfortunately it was raining so not the best of times.

Now we are anchored in Ilha Grande, an island paradise just 60 nautical miles south west of Rio... it is heaven people, just heaven... and I haven´t even gone for a dive or tried to fish. And there are plenty around for what I see just from above water.

Russ has finally caught up with most work that needed to be done and so have I, so we are now, only now, starting to relax into our time after being so long living ashore (for Brisa and I) and after a long passage (for Russ). We got lots to look forward to, so much to see, but we are very excited about the approaching family gathering in Paraty, just another 30 miles south, still in the same big bay that hosts Ilha Grande. We will celebrate Brisa´s 1st birthday with many friends and family coming from all over the country. We have hired a Pousada (guest house) which has a marina in front so we could put Moonwalker there and enjoy the 4 days of holiday planned as it is Corpus Christi holiday – you got to love these Catholic countries... the fun starts on the 22nd and goes all the way to the 27th of June! 

After that we travel a bit more around this area then extend Russ´ visa for another 3 months and start heading up the coast aiming to be in the Caribbean for Christmas.

Yes, you guys, we are heading home... slowly but surely. Be there by end of 2012. No work, just fun from here on. 

So if you were planning to visit... NOW IS GOOD!

Monday, 2 May 2011

Russ is here! Actually he has been here over a week but internet troubles, a burocratic but friendly entrance to the country, a sick daughter, and the facility of sending news from facebook made us a bit lazy... Regardless we are here even if writing from a mobile! Russell´s trip was nothing short of remarkable: 12.5 days from St Helena to Angra dos Reis! He covered the Atlantic in a total of 21.5 days, wonder what they would have done if they had come straight. By the sounds of it, St Helena is worth the detour. I will endeavour to have Russ type his own report on the trip, but i can advance it was a beauty. They hit the brazilian coast at Cabo Frio and covered 55 miles under Moonwalkers new kite in 5 hours until Rio where they had to turn on the motors for the following 60 miles to Angra. The only other time they used the engine was to avoid oil platforms of Macae coast in Rio. By far the most dangerous part was entering Angra during Easter time! Brazilian yachtsmen are notorious for their slack attitude to boating rules and Russ saw himself in troubled waters amongst motor yachts going 4 abreast giving no room to him (probably because they didn`t even see him). Easter over Angra was paradise. Checking in was easy and friendly, people are lovely and Brisa is by far our best ambassador. She has been sick with seasonal allergies causing lots of coffs and full chest. Her nose looks like a water tap when we take her for a swim in the sea which she adores. We had my brother and family onboard twice and my uncle Giovanni had a peep when he dropped me off. Next weekend should be fun when we go to Rio to catch up with other family and have a peep at the Rio Boat Show. Another very nice episode was being recognised! Brazilian boaties whom follow our blog were here and came to welcome us to Brazil and wish us luck on our travels. A proud moment for Moonwalker and crew!

Tuesday, 19 April 2011

Getting closer to Brazil!

Finally Russell managed to get some news across! All is going well and by the looks of it, the wind is wonderful! The last update he was doing an average of 10knots. His ETA then was Friday the 22nd of April in Angra dos Reis... Brisa and I have our fingers crossed!

He will be arriving in the middle of the Easter Holidays, absolute mayhem all over Brazil... so his timing could not be much worse in terms of getting things done but it will surely give him a lively welcome as everything is jam packed with people.

The down side is that my family is unable to be there as everything is full already and we can´t find any accomodation whatsoever... such a shame. But everyone is getting organized to visit.

I am leaving Brasilia on friday morning with Brisa hoping to either go straight to Angra to join Moonwalker or wait in Rio with family if he doesn´t show up on Friday.

WE ARE SO EXCITED!!!

Friday, 15 April 2011

Moonwalker on its way to Brazil

Hi everyone,

As usual a bit late on the update, but life as a single mother ain´t easy!

Russ left Cape Town on the 19th of March with Jannie and reached St Helena in 9.5 days of amazing sailing, especially with the jenika he bought from Quantum for an absolute bargain just before he left. Never saw someone so excited about a piece of cloth... the true sailors may forgive me for this coment one day.

They are now on their way to Angra dos Reis, south of Rio de Janeiro. They left St Helena last saturday, 9th of abril. Unfortunately the radio sched I organized for him with Marçal Ceccon from the yacht Rapunzel is not happening, Russ hasn´t shown up yet. Could be a hundred different reasons, but I am a bit afraid, knowing my beloved husband, that he may have misplaced the frequency or made a mistake with the time difference... but more propably it´s the propagation or someother more reasonable explanation. My imagination flies when we don´t have news!

Imagine them arriving in Brazil and just calling me out of the blue: "we are here!" or worse, calling me just after a few sneaky days of enjoying Brazil! No way José!!!! : )

Monday, 21 March 2011

CAPE TOWN!!!!!

We are in Cape Town!!!!

Russ and Jannie left Knysna last thursday on a very dicey forecast and foggy afternoon but relatively calm Heads. They had a pretty good trip, which had all the typical elements of sailing in South Africa: motoring for hours, then light breezes with swell, then very strong winds (no more than 35 according to Russ) with rain and cold between Cape Agulhas and Cape Point which was expected, and flat calm seas with a fabulous sunrise arriving in Cape Town on saturday. What a trip...

Myself, Cristina and Brisa drove down, which had it's shares of adventures, staying a night in Stillbaai, being hosted by Fishy and Sonja friends of Jannie and Cris and then in Cape Town by Gerbs and Tami in Durbanville. What a lovely spot that is! The boys joined us on their first night in town, where they could scrub up and enjoy a nice braai. Next day we all came back to the boat and went for a cruise around the harbor, so we could all admire the incredible view of the city from the water. We anchored off Clifton for a little while then returning for some curry onboard.

Our marina is right in town, as I write I can see the stadium and the Table Mountain behind... absolutely unreal.

The plans are still in the air, public holiday today so not much opened so can't really start organizing anything but no hurry yet. Apparently there is a window coming on thursday so the boys may take that one. I haven't booked my flight yet, but all seems to be falling into place nicely.

View from the waterfront in Table Bay. Our marina is just behind the stone wall you can see to the left. Check the new stadium!

Russ and Brisa enjoying the view... priceless moments...
I just can't believe we are about to take Moonwalker across the Atlantic... well Russ is... it's all SOOO exciting... BRAZIL HERE WE COME!!! Brisa and I just have to deal with not having Russ around for a month... sniff...

Tuesday, 15 March 2011

Back in the water in Knysna


Moonwalker is back in the water, set to go, wind looking good to the next week but the swell is massive out there… we can’t even leave the Knysna Lagoon if we wanted! The Head are totally closed.

So we are making the most of it! Sally and Peter from Witblits let us use their super duper BMW to go for a drive on the weekend so we went to the Birds of Eden and Monkeyland, a bird and monkey sanctuary close by. The aviary is the biggest in the Southern Hemisphere I hear… it was amazing!!!

As a sanctuary quite a few birds where in captivity before meaning they are quite fond of humans, or not as some loved peeking at Brisa’s toes which she didn’t appreciate at all…

Well, meanwhile swell may drop a bit on Thursday so we will try to sail out of the lagoon and onto Cape Town then. Will keep you all posted. Leave you with some recent photos
Training goes on for the little sailor
The peek from the parakeet
This Macaw was keeping an eye on Brisa's food...
This is what I call: "giving the evil eye"
We didn't see a lemur like this in Madagascar!!!
As zen as they come... ring tail Lemur or the King from Madagascar movie

Sunday, 6 March 2011

On The hard in Knysna


We have been on the hard here in Knysna since last Wednesday afternoon and are slowly getting things done. It’s a bit hard as Russ seem to have to answer the endless questions of yachties as well as the general public that crowds the waterfront area. Moonwalker is quite the attraction here. Brisa comes a close second as people simply cannot believe we are sailing with such a young one. Brisa pleases everyone by screaming in delight at all the attention and by poking her little hands through the draining holes on the deck or peeping through the escape hatch on the hulls to check everyone out and get attention.

Knysna is a lovely place with wonderful people and the yacht club here is one of these rare places where you feel right at home being a sailor or not. Very friendly and helpful to all.

The only problem here is the heads… the entrance to Knysna lagoon is scary at best of times. Russ had no wind or swell but loads of fog which is the very first time we have encountered, ever. Since we have watched the fog engulf the heads and the mountains around it many times bringing that lovely air conditioning feeling to the place. Quite impressive. 

We got a photo of Moonwalker arriving in the Lagoon from Shambala I (Jeff and Christie)

The Carlyons pose for a photo like the many tourists at the port.

Captain and crew. She understands "hold on" and "be careful" and both languages no problem.

Moonwalker at the yard in Knysna at the waterfront area, Russ actually missed the waterfront area on the photo so next one I will get it.